We’re just back from a mini expedition to the Chatham Islands (including Pitt Island), located 800 kilometres east of the South Island of New Zealand. It’s about as close as we can get to an “overseas” expedition right now. The islands do feel distinctively different from the mainland and offer a rich geological and wilderness experience. There’s an extensive hiking track network, but very little information online. So we hiked them all and have documented our experiences below.
1) J. M. Barker (Hapupu) National Historic Reserve
- Overview: Two easy hikes featuring Moriori rakau momori (tree carvings) and a beautiful beach.
- Time: Rakau Momori Loop Walk (20 mins) – Hanson Bay Beach Walk (40 mins)
- Grade: Easy
Access is just off North Road, follow Taia Hapupu Road which turns into a grass road across fields. Two hikes available here – the first (Rakau Momori Loop Walk – 20 mins) covers a simple loop featuring a Moriori rakau momori (tree carving). Turn right at the end (just before the car park) and there’s a longer loop to Hanson Bay (40 mins). Well marked and finishes back at the junction where the tree carving is. Note, there is a sign asking that you book a guided tour with a DOC-approved operator before entering. There is one toilet.
2) Chudleigh Conservation Area
- Overview: Small patch of forested conservation land at the base of Mt. Chudleigh. No obvious tracks, but nice views.
- Time: 30-60mins
- Grade: Easy
Signposted from Wharakauri Road. Access is via a public access road parcel. There aren’t any obvious tracks, but an opening near the middle of the reserve that you can follow. Great views of both Mt. Chudleigh and over towards the ancient volcanic cones. No toilet.
3) Tikitiki Hill Conservation Area
- Overview: Short stroll up a small hill near Waitangi
- Time: 5-10mins
- Grade: Easy
Follow the road towards Hanson Point. Very easy stroll up a small hill with great views of Waitangi township. Also the site of Chatham Islands TV and an old satellite station.
4) Henga Scenic Reserve
- Overview: Great loop hike with plenty of variety
- Time: 2.5hrs
- Grade: Easy/Medium
Public access is via North Road. There is private access for those staying at the Henga Lodge. The track starts through farmland, which then connects to the loop track. There is a toilet tucked away near the start of the loop. We walked clockwise, stopping at the impressive limestone rocks and the lookout, before descending through the dunes. The track continues through the dunes, but surprisingly does not include the beach (it’s fenced off). I’ve checked and it’s all public land, so we jumped over the fence. There’s a bit of a climb out of the dunes towards the lodge. You can take the Short Track, or continue following the loop. One of my favorite walks!
5) Ocean Mail Scenic Reserve
- Overview: Three separate hikes across wetland and coastal areas
- Time: Wetland Walk (15 mins), Aster Walk (20 mins), Lake Walk (2 hrs)
- Grade: Easy
This great little spot features three separate hikes and a picnic area with access to the beach. Access is from North Road. The first walk is the Wetland Walk, a 15 mins loop track which takes you to Lake Wharemanu. Mostly boardwalk. The second (Aster Walk) is just down the road. It’s a short 20 min in and out the same way hike to a slightly elevated viewing area. The picnic bench has vanished. The third (Lake Walk) starts at the end of Aster and takes you to Lake Rangitai. You’ll need to take a small detour to actually access the lake. According to the map, the track ends at the road, but this isn’t true. The orange markers continue across the road and there’s a rough (but marked) track through the dunes that will take you back to the start of the Aster walk (to complete a full loop). The markers are a bit hard to follow near the end, but look out for the blue poles. If you get lost, the road is never far (just over the dunes).
6) Thomas Mohi Tuuta Scenic Reserve / Rangaika Tramping Track
- Overview: A loop track to the southern cliffs and through peat-land forest
- Time: 4-5 hours
- Grade: Medium
Access is via Owenga Road. Parking is difficult – you’ll just need to pull over on the side of the road. The DOC brochure/website incorrectly states this is a 8hr hike. The time on the sign (4-5 hours) is accurate. This hike is divided into five sections. The first is the Owenga Road section (green, 1 hr) which takes you to the Rangaika Scenic Reserve and the start of the loop. From here, the Northern Track (blue, 45 mins) enters the peat-land forest. It’s overgrown in places, but well marked. Emerging out of the forest, the East Boundary Track (purple, 30 mins) follows the fence line all the way to the cliffs and picnic area. Note, there are a couple of tracks off the East Boundary Track (one even marked with orange triangles) heading back into the forest. Do NOT follow these, they are bait lines only. The picnic area provides amazing views over to Pitt Island. There’s a toilet also in the far corner. From here, the Southern Track (yellow, 1 hr) reenters the forest. There are a few open areas providing more views of the cliffs, but don’t get too close to the edge… it’s a long way down. The markers are a difficult to follow at times, particularly through the open flax areas and disappeared entirely during a stretch of the track. After an hour or so, you’ll exit the forest on the West Boundary Track (red, 1hr) which connects back to the Owenga Road Track (green, 1 hr).
7) Nikau Bush Conservation Area
- Overview: Two loop tracks through some stunning Nikau forest
- Time: Ribbonwood Track (30 mins loop), Nikau Track (1hr 15 mins loop)
- Grade: Easy
Access is from North Road. This conservation area is divided into two separate loop tracks – the Ribbonwood Track (30 mins loop) and the Nikau Track (1hr 15 mins loop). As you’d expect, the Nikau Track is littered with impressive nikau palms. There are also good views over to Mt. Korako. There is a toilet near the entrance.
8) Cape Young and Splatter Rock
- Overview: Stunning beaches, iron-rich headland and impressive vertical tubular lava
- Time: 3hrs
- Grade: Easy/Medium
Access is at the end of the Wharekauri Road. There are no signposts and access wasn’t clear, so we asked for permission. The official Chatham Islands website states that this area is open to the public and no permission is necessary. The foreshore and beach area is public conservation land anyway, so best to stick to that. The walk to the splatter rock is under an hour, best viewing is at low tide. From here, continue around the coast, you’ll arrive at another smaller beach and a wave cut platform. At the end of the beach are some impressive iron-rich cliffs that rival that of Pitt Island.
9) Basalt Columns
- Overview: Impressive basalt columns formed 80 million years ago
- Time: Drivable to the entry point.
- Grade: Easy
Located at Ohira Bay, the Basalt Columns are one of the main attractions on the island. They were formed from a ponded lava flow around 80 million years ago. Access is via Port Hutt Road and is on private land. You will need to phone in advance and collect a key. Many accommodation providers have their own key. The entry fee is $25. Once you unlock the gate, you can drive to the end of the road. The columns are easily accessed by foot. We spent at least an hour here.
10) Stone Cottage
- Overview: A historic cottage, beach and two reserves
- Time: 15 min walk to the cottage, 1 hr around the reserves
- Grade: Easy
Access is from Waitangi West Road, just down from Te Puke Hill. You will need to ring first (305 0501 – Helen Bint) . Visiting days are Tues-Fri and and entry fee is $20. The walk from the road is a grass road track across gently rolling farmland that took around 15 mins. Helen is a wonderful lady who invited us in and told us all about the cottage and some intriguing stories. Next door is the Harold Peirce and Canon Peirce Reserves and a two beaches you can explore.
11) Awatotara Private Reserve / Taiko Camp/ Tuku Reserve
- Overview: Two tracks to the coast and a loop track
- Time: Bush to Coast Track 1-2 hrs, Loop Track 2-3 hrs
- Grade: Hard
We didn’t have time to walk these tracks, but did scope them out from the road. Access is at the southern end of the Waitangi Tuku Road. Entry is only with permission (Liz or Bruce, 305 0351) and access charges apply. There are two main tracks – the Bush to Coast Track (1-2 hrs) and the Loop Track (2-3 hrs). Both are listed as advanced tramping tracks with a good level of fitness required. There is another track/road that (according to the map) takes you along the coast to Taiko Camp and the Tuku Reserve. This road however is gated and with “road closed” sign.
12) Ellen Elizabeth Preece Conservation Covenant / Caravan Bush (Pitt Island)
- Overview: A short loop and a longer loop through regenerating forest
- Time: Caravan Bush Loop (1-1.5hrs), Short Loop Track (10-20mins)
- Grade: Easy
Access is via Northhead Road. It features two tracks you can walk. The main track is the Caravan Bush Loop which is 2.4km and will take approximately 1-1.5 hrs to complete. The second is a short loop of just 400m and will take 10-20 mins. Do slow down here as the bush is home to many birds including the Chatham petrel. Both tracks start and end at the DOC hut.
13) Waihere Bay Geology (Pitt Island)
- Overview: Beach, iron-rich headline and views to surrounding islands
- Time: Drivable to the headline, allow for an hour or more to walk the beach
- Grade: Easy/Medium
If you’re into Geology, this is a must do. Access is from Flower pot / Glory Road and drivable over farmland to the headland (you should be on a guided tour!). The headland offers some rock formations and great views over the bay and over to Mangere Island. The sandstone cliffs surrounding the beach are some of the oldest rocks on the island.
14) Glory Cottage (Pitt Island)
- Overview: Idyllic cottage that is now a DOC Hut
- Time: Drivable to the cottage
- Grade: Easy
From the airport, head south along a rough road, over a bridge, through some sand and then onto rolling farm fields. This will take you all the way to the cottage, located at Glory Bay. There are great views over to Rangatira Island. It’s well worth a stroll around Glory Bay featuring an old wooden boat and a friendly pig 🙂
