Circumnavigating the Manukau Harbour

During New Zealand’s second major lockdown, Auckland was cut off from the rest of the country. We couldn’t leave its borders, but we could travel anywhere within the region. Having hiked every trail, climbed every volcano, and explored every regional park, our options were running thin for new adventures. Desperate for a new challenge, we unfurled a map and pondered our options. The coastline seemed promising, but we had already traversed the entire west coast and most of the eastern one. Then, a wild idea sparked: had anyone ever circumnavigated the Manukau Harbour? Research turned up nothing, and a plan was born. We’d walk its entire circumference, venturing into the unknown.

Poring over maps and satellite images, we quickly realised the magnitude of our challenge. The route around the Manukau Harbour presented all sorts of obstacles. The Waitakere Ranges loomed with treacherous rocky coastline and powerful surf. Then there was vast expanses of tidal mud flats and dense mangrove forests. And lastly, there was Auckland International Airport, squarely in the middle of our planned route. Its web of no-go zones would likely require a short detour through roads.

This circumnavigation would be no simple stroll—it would test our endurance, ingenuity, and determination at every turn.

As we sketched out our preliminary route, we were taken aback by the sheer scale of the journey—approximately 400 kilometers in total. It quickly became apparent that this wasn’t a feat we could accomplish in one continuous push. The logistics presented another layer of complexity. Following the coastline sequentially from start to finish proved impractical due to the ever-changing tides. Timing our progress to coincide with low tides was crucial, yet incredibly challenging to plan across such a vast distance.

Faced with these obstacles, we devised a new strategy. We decided to divide our grand circumnavigation into discrete sections. Rather than tackling them in a set order, we would approach each segment opportunistically, based on favorable tidal and weather conditions. This flexible approach would allow us to chip away at our goal piece by piece. We set no timeframe, knowing it could take us many months or even a year to complete.

So in late September 2021, we commenced our epic adventure.

Grahams Beach to Te Toro Point

This was our first major segment of the journey. It started off relatively easy, with a stretches of sandy beach, rocky coastline and waste deep water. But as we get closer to Te Toro Point, we found ourselves navigating through thick mud, sometimes thigh deep.

Our first significant leg of the journey began deceptively, lulling us into a false sense of ease. The initial stretch alternated between strolling along sandy beaches, carefully picking our way across rocky shorelines, and wading through waist-deep waters.

However, as we approached Te Toro Point, the true challenge of this segment became apparent. The coastline transformed into a treacherous expanse of thick, clinging mud. With each step, we found ourselves sinking deeper. What started as ankle-deep mud soon became a thigh-high struggle, our progress slowing to a crawl as we fought against the sucking grip of the mudflats.

Karaka to Whatapaka

Emboldened by our initial success, we embarked on what would prove to be the most grueling segment of our entire circumnavigation. Our optimism quickly dissipated as we encountered mud flats that defied our expectations. Rather than providing solid footing, the terrain transformed into a quagmire of unprecedented proportions. The mud, thick and viscous, seemed to possess an insatiable appetite – for us. Without exaggeration, it threatened to engulf us completely. Many in our group found themselves hopelessly stuck, requiring rescue by rope. Forced to adapt, we resorted to using pack rafts to navigate the wider estuaries. Our ordeal took an ominous turn when a concerned local warned us of shark activity in the very waters we had been traversing.

Our plan to reach Clarks Beach was thwarted by the rapidly encroaching tide and the onset of dusk. Fortune smiled upon us in the form of the welcoming residents of Whatapaka Pa, who graciously allowed us passage through their land, providing a much-needed escape.

Grahams Beach to Manukau Heads Lighthouse

This segment of our journey presented a mix of ease and challenge. The initial stretch was relatively straightforward, lulling us into a false sense of security. However, the final ascent to the lighthouse proved to be a test of endurance. The flat coast gave way to an uphill climb, with soft sand underfoot making each step a laborious effort. Our calves burned as we trudged through the yielding terrain, our progress slowed to a grueling pace. A group of hiking companions joined us for this leg of the adventure.

Whatipu to Huia

This leg of our journey presented a stark contrast to our previous experiences, trading mudflats for a treacherous volcanic landscape. Our progress was further impeded by the relentless assault of powerful waves and surf. The ocean, seemingly determined to hinder our advance, constantly battered us as we picked our way along the jagged shoreline.

Adding to the challenge was an unexpected encounter with the local wildlife. Aggressive seals, clearly unaccustomed to human presence in their domain, reacted with surprise and hostility.

At several points, the coastal route became too precarious to follow, forcing us to ascend to higher ground. These climbs required careful use of ropes to ensure our safety as we scaled the steep, rocky terrain.

It ended up taking a lot longer than anticipated, so had to abandon halfway through and head back.

Huia back to Whatipu

Undeterred by our previous setback, we decided to tackle the challenging stretch between Whatipu and Huia once more, this time approaching from the Huia end. Fortune favored us on this attempt, as the ocean proved more cooperative with significantly calmer swells.

Our change in strategy paid off handsomely. We made swift progress along the rugged coastline, our earlier experience helping us navigate the familiar terrain with increased confidence. The journey, which had once seemed insurmountable, now unfolded at a brisk pace.

At several points, we found ourselves plunging into the water, swimming portions where the shoreline became impassable.

Whilst the highlights were covered in the videos above, there were many stretches that we didn’t film. Some of the other highlights included Puketutu Island, which had many geological highlights.

Navigating Auckland Airport proved challenging. We couldn’t skirt the runway, but we did get close until a security vehicle soon asked us to turn back. Forced to detour onto Renton Road, we rejoined the coast at Puhinui Reserve—the only option. Mangere Inlet posed another hurdle; the walkway abruptly ended at Anns Creek. A continuous path around the inlet would be a tremendous improvement.

Overall, it was an amazing adventure filled with striking contrasts. The journey ended up spanning nine months and covering a distance of nearly 400 kilometers. Even now, as I fly out of Auckland and take in the stunning views of the Manukau Harbour, I still find it hard to believe that we walked the entire circumference of that breathtaking body of water.

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